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    Oscar Eckenstein - Wikipedia

    In the late 19th century, the typical ice axe shaft measured 120–130 cm in length. Eckenstein started the trend toward shorter ice axes with a lighter model measuring 85–86 cm, which could be used single handed. Initially, this innovation was criticised by well-known climbers of the era, including his nemesis Martin … See more

    Oscar Johannes Ludwig Eckenstein (9 September 1859 – 8 April 1921) was an English rock climber and mountaineer, and a pioneer in the … See more

    Eckenstein climbed in the English Lake District with George and Ashley Abraham, though their relationship was not always smooth, and in North … See more

    Eckenstein was one of the few people who readily climbed with mystic and magician Aleister Crowley. In his autobiography Confessions, Crowley praises Eckenstein in several passages, mentioning his gymnastic strength, including his ability to do one-arm chin … See more

    He was a railway engineer for most of his life – well educated, and insufferably arrogant (some said). He was not one to mince words, and a long feud with the Alpine Club caused … See more

    Eckenstein's father was a Jewish socialist from Bonn who had fled the Kingdom of Prussia following the failed revolution of 1848. His mother was English.
    His sisters were See more

    Together with Matthias Zurbriggen he made the first ascent of the Stecknadelhorn (4,241 m) in the Pennine Alps on 8 August 1887; on 10 July 1906, together with Karl … See more

    Eckenstein was a member of an expedition led by Sir Martin Conway to the Baltoro Muztagh region in 1892. The expedition was sponsored by the Royal Society, … See more

     
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  3. Oscar Eckenstein: the first true innovator of climbing …

    WEBDec 5, 2012 · By the end of the 1960s, a new generation of scientific minds had refined Eckenstein’s idea yet further, using radically curved ice axes to climb directly up vertical ice. Front points on their crampons allowed …

  4. Gear Physics: How Ice Screws Keep Ice Climbers from Falling to …

  5. Great Explorers: Oscar Eckenstein » Explorersweb

    WEBSep 14, 2022 · Born in 1859, English engineer and mountaineer Oscar Eckenstein was a force in late 19th-century climbing. He was a pioneer of bouldering, improved the ice ax, and designed the modern crampon. …

  6. 40 Years Later: The Story Behind the First American …

    WEBOct 18, 2018 · Oscar Eckenstein was the first person to attempt the mountain with an international expedition in 1902. The first successful K2 summit was achieved by an Italian expedition comprised of scientists in …

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  8. The engineer, the crampon and the beast by Marina …

    WEBMar 26, 2021 · He then provocatively writes in his Advice to young climbers that true champions must be sought outside of the hierarchies of mountaineering: you can tell the real ace if he uses crampons, and if he …

  9. The Best Crampons for the 2022/2023 Ice Season

    WEBNov 7, 2022 · In 1908, English climber Oscar Eckenstein designed what is generally considered the prototype for the modern crampon. He worked with a blacksmith to design a steel device with 10 long, sharp spikes that …

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